Scientific evidence supports the topical and oral use of sea buckthorn berry oil to improve hydration, barrier function and skin regeneration.
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is a shrub known for centuries for its therapeutic properties. Its small, intensely orange berries are an extraordinary source of bioactive compounds, including carotenoids, flavonoids and a unique composition of fatty acids. It has been used for centuries in various medical traditions in Asia and Europe. In Tibetan and Mongolian medicine, the berries were used to treat digestive disorders, improve vitality and support recovery after illness. The oil obtained from the berries was also applied to the skin to accelerate the healing of wounds and burns, both topically and orally. These traditional applications have sparked growing scientific interest, particularly in the field of dermatology and mucosal health.
Today, scientific research has confirmed many of the traditional uses of this plant, especially in skin care and in supporting dermatological conditions such as atopic dermatitis.
One of the most notable components of the oil extracted from the berry pulp is palmitoleic acid (C16:1 n-7), known as omega-7, a monounsaturated fatty acid that is relatively rare in the plant kingdom. This lipid plays an important role in the integrity of cell membranes and in the health of the skin and mucous membranes. Sea buckthorn pulp oil may contain very high concentrations of this fatty acid, which explains many of its dermatological benefits.
To preserve these sensitive compounds, the oil can be obtained through supercritical CO₂ extraction (scCO₂), an advanced technology that operates at low temperature, without oxygen and without organic solvents. This method allows better preservation of the bioactive lipids and antioxidants present in the berry. Oils obtained by this technique have reported omega-7 contents close to 37–38%, within the natural range of the berries (approximately 25–41%).
Modern research has shown that sea buckthorn oil has multiple beneficial effects on the skin thanks to its combination of essential fatty acids, antioxidants and phytonutrients.
Several clinical studies have shown that oral consumption of sea buckthorn oil may help improve parameters related to skin health, such as:
- Increased skin hydration, assessed through instrumental measurements.
- Significant improvement in skin elasticity.
- Overall support for skin and mucosal health, thanks to its nourishing and anti-inflammatory action.
On the other hand, studies on topical formulations containing between 3% and 5% sea buckthorn oil obtained by supercritical CO₂ have shown promising results:
- Increased skin hydration.
- Improvement in skin elasticity and texture.
- Increased skin thickness, an indicator related to dermal support and deep hydration.
- Antioxidant protection against UV radiation, reducing free radical formation and lipid photo-oxidation.
In addition, an acceleration in the recovery of the skin barrier function has been observed, a key aspect in many dermatological disorders.
Applications in atopic dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory condition characterised by intense dryness, impaired skin barrier and increased sensitivity to irritants and allergens. Sea buckthorn oil may act as a natural adjuvant in the management of this condition.
Its potential efficacy can be explained by several mechanisms:
- Restoration of barrier function. The high content of omega-7 and other fatty acids promotes the regeneration of epidermal lipids, essential for maintaining hydrated and protected skin.
- Anti-inflammatory action. The flavonoids and carotenoids present in the berries help modulate inflammatory processes associated with atopic dermatitis.
- Antioxidant protection. Atopic skin often presents higher oxidative stress. The natural antioxidants in sea buckthorn help neutralise free radicals.
- Stimulation of skin regeneration. The oil promotes tissue repair and may help improve lesions or irritation.
For these reasons, its use may be considered both orally —as nutritional support for the skin and mucous membranes— and topically, as part of creams or dermatological oils.
Current scientific evidence suggests that both oral and topical use may offer relevant benefits, especially as a complement in the management of atopic dermatitis and other conditions related to skin dryness and inflammation.
The combination of millenary medicinal tradition and modern scientific support positions sea buckthorn berry oil as a promising ally in nutritional and cosmetic dermatology. Thanks to its exceptional richness in palmitoleic acid omega-7, along with carotenoids, flavonoids and other antioxidants, it offers unique properties to support hydration, skin regeneration and barrier function.
It may also be recommended, in addition to atopic dermatitis, in cases of skin and mucosal dryness (skin, lips, vaginal or ocular mucosa), skin ageing associated with loss of elasticity and high oxidative stress such as in smokers’ skin, sensitive or reactive skin, and skin recovery after external aggressions such as cold or radiation.
This type of active ingredients are found in ingredients such as the sea buckthorn vegetable oil from Esential’Arôms, rich in omega-7 and obtained through advanced extraction technology.
Maribel Saíz Cayuela
Degree in Biological Sciences, PGD. Dietetics and Nutrition.
